Baptiste Renouard chose Rueil-Malmaison in the Hauts-de-Seine département. His restaurant is a reminder that the Île-de-France region is a delightful pantry, where one can find black rye-and-grain bread like the one made by Maxence Coupel, as well as honey from Greg’s apiary. High-quality local products that can easily be picked up in the town center after your meal. The young Breton chef hasn’t forgotten his roots. On this particular day, he drew on inspiration from his stay on the Quiberon peninsula to serve us a shallot royale, spruce oil condiment, salicornia, a briny foam, and wild fennel. His cooking isn’t limited to seafood, though. A former protégé of Robuchon, he deftly handles surf-and-turf: Jerusalem artichoke broth, accented with licorice, pairs beautifully with cod. And dessert is magnificent, featuring a base of lait ribot—the famous fermented milk from Brittany—which softens the acidity of braised clementines and lemon. 56 rue du Gué, Rueil-Malmaison (Hauts-de-Seine). Menu at 55 euros.